In Search of the Perfect Slab: A Lesson in Respect and Preparation

The Challenge

On December 27, 2024, a group of friends and I set out to tackle a challenge: surfing a slab we discovered years ago near Punta Blanca in the town known as Jaramijó, around 2005. This wave is something special, a perfect cylinder breaking over a rocky reef, formed by powerful northern swells and the deep waters surrounding it. Its speed and strength make it a marvel, but it’s also incredibly dangerous, suited only for experienced surfers.

On Saturday, December 28, we decided to check it out. Francisco Herrera, Cesar Briones (La Pepona), Johnny Montes, Fabricio Mora, and I, José Moreira, agreed to revisit this gem, skipping safer and more predictable sessions at other beaches. When we arrived, we were greeted by perfection, a flawless wave paired with an eerie scene of a shipwreck from the night before, adding a sense of fear and tension to the atmosphere.

After much discussion about the best way to approach it, three friends decided to paddle out from a spot that seemed easier. Unfortunately, they soon discovered a powerful current that kept them far from the breaking point. After a tough battle with the water, Cesar and Fabricio managed to position themselves near the takeoff zone. Cesar attempted to catch a wave but quickly learned how fast and unforgiving it was. The wave sent him crashing to the bottom with immense force but fortunately he did not hit the reef. Exhausted and realizing they needed a better plan, they decided to leave the water.

Johnny and I stayed on the shore, observing and analyzing. It was a mix of excitement and frustration. Seeing the wave in all its glory without riding it felt bittersweet. That night, I reflected on my hesitation and regretted not giving it a try. Still, I resolved to return the next day with determination.

The Epicenter of the Swell

On Sunday, December 29, we returned to the slab, but this time the word had spread. The spot was crowded with surfers eager to take on the challenge. Overnight, the swell had grown bigger, and the wave was now faster, steeper, and even more dangerous than the day before.

I stuck to my plan and paddled out. From the moment I entered the water, I knew I was in a special place. The paddle out was long and tiring, but reaching the lineup felt like entering the heart of the ocean. However, the excitement was mixed with fear and tension. The wave was incredibly fast and powerful, and every wipeout meant facing a rocky reef below.

I saw another surfer try to catch a wave and get thrown down hard. He hurt his feet on the reef, which was a painful reminder of how brutal the ocean can be. As I approached the wave, I tried to feel its rhythm and power, but I soon realized I wasn’t ready. It wasn’t about courage or strength; it was about having the right equipment. A helmet and a protective vest would have made all the difference.

I decided to leave the water. Even though I didn’t catch a wave, I didn’t feel disappointed. The experience itself was valuable and taught me so much.

A Lesson Learned

On my way out, I watched my friend La Pepona tackle an incredible wave. He got into a massive barrel, but the wave eventually threw him down onto the reef. Thankfully, he was wearing a helmet, which saved him from a serious head injury, though he did end up with some scratches and bruises on his back.

This session reminded me of an important truth: surfing is about more than just the adrenaline rush. It’s about respect; respect for the ocean, for its power, and for ourselves. Recognizing our limits and learning from each session is part of the journey.

For all of us who paddled out that day, it was a humbling experience. Even as skilled surfers, we understood that a new wave is always a challenge that demands preparation and respect.

Looking Ahead

As a surf guide with Ecuador Surf Adventure, this experience strengthened my commitment to sharing the joys of surfing the waves in my country in a way that is both thrilling and safe. Surfing isn’t just about finding the perfect wave, it’s about the entire experience, from the challenges to the lessons we learn along the way.

Celebrating with Craft Beer

After such an intense experience, I ended the day at Beer To Go, reflecting with a cold IPA in hand. Surfing and craft beer share something special, both are about the stories they create and the memories they evoke. It was the perfect way to wrap up an unforgettable adventure, surrounded by good friends and great vibes.